Kerby Jean-Raymond is a designer who isn’t afraid to bring attention to societal issues both on and off the runway. But instead of splashing it graphically across a T-shirt this season, Jean-Raymond combined the power of music — a gospel choir sang anthems about black empowerment such as Kendrick Lamar’s “Alright” — with stellar men’s and women’s looks.
Jean-Raymond looked to, or more specially read into, the original African-American cowboys and 19th-century rodeo to guide his fall collection for Pyer Moss. The most pronounced detail, contrast topstitching, was incorporated into the majority of the line, like a savvy monochromatic suit set rendered in royal blue for women and red for men. (Most of the men’s looks were replicated into women’s and translated flawlessly.) Western themes, like leather jackets and shearling, were combined with a touch of athleticism; there was even a hint of an upcoming project with Cross Colours. Fantastic wide-leg trousers proved stars of the show, particularly an olive pair of men’s with wide side-pleats, as did a chunky sweater, hand-knitted by Jean-Raymond’s pal, Aisling Camps.
The second half of the show included 16 looks Jean-Raymond designed for Reebok. “Reebok by Pyer Moss” incorporated Americana red, white and blue with mustard, maroon